Let me preface this blog with an apology. I'm terribly sorry I have not put up a post in a while and therefore this one is a bit long. I haven't forgotten, I promise, we just get terrible internet and, contrary to popular belief, I am still in school, I'm not just gallivanting my way around Europe (well, not yet at least).
We had to be up at around 7:00 Thursday morning to make it to Piazza Garibaldi by 8:00 because we were going to the Chiesa dell'Autostrada del sol San Giovanni Batista (quite a mouthful if you ask me). This church was deisgned by Giovanni Michelucci to memorialize all of the workers who died while building the Autostrada (the highway). It’s this awesome, modern looking building slightly in the middle of nowhere, directly in between Rome and Milan. Similar to Le Corbusier’s Notre Dame de Haut, this building is made all of architectural concrete and stone from all over Italy. It is sort of like the architect took all of the conventions of a typical cathedral and modernized and inverted them. Instead of the nave being rectangular with the altar at the end of a shorter side, the nave is midway through one of the longer sides. Instead of having a vaulted ceiling that soars towards the heavens, the ceiling is almost a concave vault encroaching into the space. While there are clerestory windows, they do not follow a specific form nor are they particularly visible but rather disappear into the crevices of the ceiling to only let in light in varying patterns. The columns have no capitals and in fact, fork off in arbitrary places and into different planes. Every moment of the building was a different experience with varying elevations, the transistions between them promoting movement throughout the building. Sorry for all of the architecture dork mumbo jumbo, but I found it fascinating. Anyways, everybody gabbed some cappuccinos and then we headed back to Santa Chiara to eat lunch and then work in studio. We had somewhat of a miniature review, (again, I do still have to actually work while here) and then dinner. As a special treat, Santa Chiara brought in a local accordianist for our entertainment for the night. They also provided us with biscotti and Vin Santo, a dessert (which to me was reminiscent of mandel bread) and dessert wine typical of the Tuscany area. Clearly, the people around me are not particularly experienced wine drinkers as they didn’t enjoy the wine but rather chose to kick it back like a shot. Dessert wine is meant to be sipped slowly, rolled around the tongue, and savored but few people appreciated it in that way. Oh well, their loss. I enjoyed it immensely, especially as I got to listen to fantastic and moving accordian music, of all things. I especially enjoyed watching my professor, Paolo, who clearly enjoyed the music almost to an out-of body-experience level. Just sitting there while the music and wine washed over us, imagining the way the music of the accordian would sound in a music hall or cathedral, I was reminded that I am in Italy and that this kind of experience is really what living in a foreign country is about.
Saturday morning, we woke up really early to go to Cortona on the 9:40 train. I had a miserable time on the bus because it was super jolty and there were a ton of switchbacks so I was getting really carsick. The bus finally dropped us off at the Piazza Garibaldi which overlooked the valley under Cortona. It was just awesome to look out across a huge expanse with mountains rising up on all sides yet we weren’t even at the top of the city, more like half way up. Cortona was much the same as Castiglion Fiorentino but probably double in size. On either side of the cobbled streets rise four-storied buildings, each showcasing food, clothing, wine, or other products on their lowermost levels. While we were so tempted to stop to window shop after every ten feet, we had never been to this town, and, like all other medieval cities, this one is oriented with roads in a circle around the mountain with vertical streets bisecting them. Unless you know the town, you will get lost, so, our first stop was the tourist information building to get maps. Despite that, we did of course still get lost but more on that later. Our second stop was to take a look around the market going on that day. Much like the Friday morning C.F. market, this one had cheeses and meats, fruits and vegetables, and of course, clothing. I’ve managed to convince myself that I can do without cute Italian clothes, but I have been in desperate need of scarves. When Megan and I saw scarves (and cute ones at that) for three Euro, we jumped at the chance to indulge a bit. We both wound up with three which I am super excited about and you’ll most likely see throughout my upcoming facebook photos or when I get back to the states. The next couple of hours were spent exploring the city… well, more like getting lost in the city. Our goal was to get to the big pilgramage cathedral at the top of the hill but we of course passed another church that we had to stop in and see. In this country, you can't walk 50 yards (or 45.72 meters depending on which country you're in) without coming across a church. This one was nothing particularly special so we didn’t dawdle too long. It was only when we went outside and looked at our map that we realized we probably should have taken a longer break because the road that we needed to follow was straight uphill. This isn’t like College Station where the biggest hill is probably coming out of the tunnel at Kyle Field. These roads are sometimes so close to vertical that you actually feel the need to climb on all-fours. This road was no different. You might think we’re used to this by now but Cortona is about twice as big as C.F. so while we can, on occasion, just sprint up the hills here to get it over with, this street was probably three or four times as long as any road in Castig. Let’s just say it took us a while and there was no need to do P90X when we got home. Unfortunatley, or fortunately, depending on how you look at it, one of my friends who has little to no sense of direction was in charge of the map. When we got to a fork in the road and she got too discombobulated, I sort of took charge and just started leading everybody in the direction of the church. We could clearly see it at the top of the hill so I figured walking towards it would be the best solution. The road that we took soon became gravel which then turned into a single-file walking path. This did not dishearten us in the least bit because down to our right, beyond a grove of olive trees, we could see the entire valley, completely undisrupted by trees, the sounds of cars, or any sign of other people. Even on a cloudy, foggy day, the view was absolutely glorious. We marveled for a moment but then continued on, our path finally intersecting one of the roads boardering the cathedral. I know, I’m kind of weird, but this road was just about as gorgeous to me as the view of the valley. Massive trees were on the left, spanning above the road to create a canopy while a 12 foot high wall was on the right and the ground was covered in moss-laden cobblestones, essentially encasing us in a tunnel of deep green. It was fantastic except for the fact that it was yet another hill to climb. We finally made it all the way up the hill and, slightly out of breath, turned towards the front of the church. The outside was nothing special but the interior was gorgeously painted, predominantly this deep blue. Unfortunatley, we couldn’t take photos inside, but it was fantastic with four huge domes that were rather celestial in nature. As we approached the altar, it became clear why this was the Chiesa della Santa Margarita. There she was. Emaciated flesh and bone inside of a glass case. Sorry to anybody out there who practices Catholicism, but I just don’t get it, I don’t really like to look at skeletons as I pray, just a matter of preference, I’m sure. Unfortunately it was almost siesta time and so the nuns who take care of the building were starting to shut it down for the afternoon so we had to content ourselves with a few photgraphic memories and about a 5 minute sketch of the floorplan. Hungry and cold, we practically flew down the mountain to make it to what is purported to be the absolute best pizzeria in Tuscany. I’m not sure if I 100% agree, but I definitely ate the entire thing by myself. Everything was closed after we left the pizzeria so we headed back to Piazza Garibaldi to take a bus to Castiglion Fiorentino.
Enough for now, so until next time,
Ciao e a dopo
Becca
